IntegrateITAutomation & Security

Residential · Service

Motorized Shades · Kansas City.

A shade that answers to the same button as the lights, not a separate app. IntegrateIT installs Lutron motorized shades across Kansas City, Missouri and the Johnson County suburbs from Overland Park, Kansas, and commissions them on the same Lutron HomeWorks processor that runs the lighting, so one keypad press dims the room and sets the shades together. Sivoia QS Roman and roller shades, Palladiom rollers where the hardware is meant to be seen, Triathlon battery drives where no wire can reach. Wired versus battery, pocket versus fascia, and fabric openness are decided per opening, not per house. Lutron Certified Installer, Control4 Platinum dealer, Crestron Elite Partner and CEDIA member, so shades can sit under whichever platform the house already runs. Phone: (913) 804-7575 or office@integrateit.tech.

Wired or battery: the decision that expires at drywall

Every motorized shade project reduces to one early question with a long tail: does each opening get a low-voltage run to the head of the window, or does it get a battery drive? While the walls are open, that run costs almost nothing — it is another cable on the same rough-in day, pulled by the same crew, on the same trip. Once the drywall is up, the same cable is a construction project.

  • Wired Sivoia QS drives. Power and control arrive at the head pocket, and the shade becomes a fixture rather than a device. No batteries, no ladder schedule, no seasonal surprise from the one opening nobody can reach. This is the default on new construction and on any remodel that opens the ceiling near the glass.
  • Battery drives — Lutron Triathlon. The honest answer for finished plaster houses, stone or masonry walls, and stairwell glass with no path above it. They are quiet, they align across a bank, and they are the reason a retrofit shade project is possible at all. What you are accepting is a maintenance rhythm: batteries get changed, and the higher the opening, the more that costs in access rather than in parts.
  • Mixing them is normal. Most finished-home projects we run end up part wired, part battery, decided opening by opening after the survey. What matters is that the mix is chosen deliberately and written down, not discovered at install.
  • Plan the run even if you defer the shade. On new construction we routinely pull shade power to openings the owner has not committed to yet. It is the cheapest option anyone buys on the whole project, and it keeps every choice open for a decade.

If you are building or gutting, this belongs in the same conversation as the rest of the low-voltage scope — see new-construction low-voltage rough-in, which is where shade power, keypad runs and the head-pocket detail all get coordinated against the GC’s schedule rather than after it.

Pockets, fascia, and where the hardware goes

A motorized shade is a roller, a drive, brackets and a hem bar. The design question is where those live when the shade is open, and there are exactly three honest answers.

  • A framed pocket. The shade rolls up into a recess in the ceiling or head detail and disappears completely. The pocket has to be framed to a dimension that comes off the shade schedule, because roll diameter is a function of fabric thickness and shade height — a tall stairwell shade in a heavier weave needs a materially bigger pocket than a bedroom shade in the same fabric. This is why the shade schedule has to exist before the ceiling is closed, and why “we will add shades later” usually means “we will add fascia later.”
  • A fascia. A finished cover in front of the roller, painted to the ceiling or wrapped to match millwork. Visible, but deliberate and clean, and it is the right answer in most retrofits. Done properly it reads as a header detail rather than as a shade box.
  • Exposed hardware, designed on purpose. This is what Palladiom is for. The bracket and roller are treated as an object in the room, in finishes chosen with the designer, rather than as something to hide. In a room with a lot of glass and a lot of intention, it is often the better-looking answer than a pocket.

Two details that separate a good shade install from an expensive one. Hem alignment: a bank of shades across one elevation must stop on a single line, and holding that line across openings of different widths is a commissioning task, not a hardware feature. Light gaps: every roller leaves a gap at the jambs, and in a bedroom or a theater that gap is the whole point of the shade — which is what side channels are for, and which is a decision that has to be made while the opening is still being detailed.

Fabric, openness, and picking per elevation

Openness factor is the percentage of the weave that is physically open. It is the single number that decides how the room feels, and the trade it describes is one-dimensional: the more you can see out, the more sun gets in. A 1% fabric holds glare hard and mutes the view. A 3% is the usual living-room compromise. A 5% or 10% keeps the view largely intact and admits the heat and glare that come with it. Blackout has no openness at all.

So we specify it per elevation rather than per house. Blackout in primary bedrooms and any dedicated media room. Tighter weaves on the south and west glass, where a Kansas City afternoon does real work and keeps radiating into the room for hours after the sun has moved off it. Opener weaves on the north, where there is no glare to fight and the view is the only thing that matters. Two shades in the same room can carry different fabrics if they face different directions, and in rooms with a corner of glass that is usually the right call.

Fabric also carries the aesthetic decisions your designer cares about — weave, color, whether the shade reads as textile or as a plane — and it is the input to the roll diameter that sizes the pocket. That is the practical reason we pull the designer into the shade conversation at schematic rather than at order: three separate decisions ride on one fabric choice, and only one of them is how it looks.

Why the shades belong on the lighting processor

A motorized shade bought as an appliance gives you an app that raises and lowers a shade. A motorized shade commissioned on Lutron HomeWorks alongside the lighting gives you something different: shade position becomes one more thing a scene sets, in the same instruction, at the same time, from the same wall.

  • Scenes move light and shade together. Movie drops the room to 12%, takes the TV wall to zero and closes the west elevation in one press. Dinner sets the kitchen and dining levels and holds the shades where the room still feels open. Goodnight closes everything and leaves the bedside lamps. That is one keypad, not an app and a remote and an argument.
  • The astronomical clock does the work you would otherwise forget. HomeWorks knows sunrise and sunset for this latitude on this date, so shades close ahead of the sun rather than after somebody notices the room is hot — which in July on a west wall is a difference of hours. Sun-tracking holds an intermediate position that blocks the load without giving up the view.
  • Keypad engraving names it in English. The button says what it does, laser-engraved rather than labelled, and when the room changes we re-engrave the button and re-cut the scene behind it in the same visit. A shade system nobody can find on a wall gets used from a phone, which is to say rarely.
  • It survives the platform above it. Control4 or Crestron sitting on top calls the same Lutron scenes rather than driving each shade individually, which is why a house can change its automation platform later without re-commissioning every window.

The lighting half of that system is documented on our smart lighting page, the platform itself on the Lutron system page, and if your shades already exist and have stopped behaving, Lutron service and repair covers drives, schedules and the legacy Sivoia QED upgrade path.

What drives the cost

The price is driven by four things: the width and height of each opening, the fabric you choose, whether the drive is wired or battery, and whether the head pocket already exists or has to be framed. Count the windows you actually want moving — that is the real variable, more than any other choice — and everything else is a smaller multiplier on top of it.

  • A few rooms, about six shades. Primary bedroom, a bathroom, and the two or three living-room windows that take the afternoon.
  • A main-level window wall, about fourteen shades. The whole west or south elevation at once, aligned as a bank on one hem line, on an astronomical-clock schedule.
  • A whole-home package, about twenty-eight shades. Every window that should move, including the stairwell glass nobody can reach.

Where shades arrive alongside a full Lutron HomeWorks lighting system, the lighting and the shade package are priced and quoted separately, sized to what each actually needs rather than stacked as two unrelated numbers. What drives the cost of motorized shades and what drives the cost of Lutron HomeWorks cover each in full; ask what a given proposal already includes before comparing it to another one.

Coverage, plainly: every install carries a five-year workmanship warranty, the shades carry their Lutron manufacturer warranty, and you have our support for as long as you own the system. Every project starts with a no-cost site walk, and the written proposal carries a fixed price for equipment, labor and timeline — not a range by email.

Questions every Kansas City owner asks

Who installs Lutron motorized shades in Kansas City, and do they integrate with lighting scenes?

IntegrateIT (Overland Park, KS) — a Lutron Certified Installer serving Kansas City, Missouri and the Johnson County suburbs. And yes, integration is the point rather than a bonus: Lutron Sivoia QS and Palladiom shades run on the same HomeWorks processor as the lighting, so a scene is one instruction that dims the fixtures and sets the shade positions together. Movie drops the room and closes the west wall in one press. Goodnight closes everything and leaves the bedside lamps. Because the shades are on the lighting system rather than beside it, they also inherit the astronomical clock, sun-tracking positions, and any Control4 or Crestron layer sitting above. Phone: (913) 804-7575 or office@integrateit.tech.

Wired or battery motorized shades — which should I put in?

Wired, if the wall is still open. A wired Sivoia QS drive gets a low-voltage run to the head pocket during rough-in, and from that day forward the shade is a fixture: no batteries, no ladder, no maintenance calendar, and no shade that stops answering in the one window you cannot reach. Battery drives — Lutron Triathlon — exist for the case where that run is genuinely impossible: a finished plaster house, a stone wall, a two-storey stairwell opening with no path above it. They work well and they are the right answer often. But they are a maintenance commitment you are choosing on purpose, and the cost of choosing it is measured in years of ladders rather than in dollars at install. The decision is cheap before drywall and expensive after, which is why we push to have it made early.

What is a shade pocket, and do I need one?

A pocket is the recess in the ceiling or head detail that the shade rolls up into, so that when the shade is open you see architecture rather than hardware. It has to be framed, not added — the dimensions come off the shade schedule and land in the drawings before the ceiling is closed, and they depend on the roll diameter, which depends on fabric thickness and shade height. Where a pocket is not possible, the alternative is a fascia: a finished cover in front of the roller, painted or wrapped, which is honest and clean but visible. The third option — an exposed roller and bracket — is what Palladiom is designed for, where the hardware is meant to be seen and is treated as part of the room. All three are legitimate. What is not legitimate is discovering the question at trim.

What does fabric openness mean, and which one should I pick?

Openness is the percentage of the weave that is literally open — the holes. A 1% fabric is nearly opaque: strong glare control, muted view, the room stays usable at 3pm on a west wall. A 3% is the common living-room compromise. A 5% or 10% keeps a lot of the view and lets a lot of the glare through with it. Blackout has no openness at all and is what a primary bedroom or a theater wants. The trade is genuinely one-dimensional — the more you can see out, the more the sun gets in — so we pick it per elevation rather than per house: blackout in bedrooms, tighter weaves on the south and west, opener weaves on the north where there is nothing to fight. Fabric also decides the roll diameter, which decides the pocket, which is why fabric is not a decision you can defer to the end.

How much do motorized shades cost in Kansas City?

It depends on how many windows are moving, the width and height of each, the fabric you choose, and whether each opening gets a wired drive or a battery drive. Count the windows you actually want moving — that is the biggest driver by far. We give a fixed price after a no-cost site walk, not a range by email.

Can motorized shades be added to a finished house?

Yes, and most of what we install in the Kansas City metro goes into finished homes. The constraint is not the shade, it is the path: a wired drive needs a route to the head of the window, and in a finished house that route is an attic, a soffit, a closet stack or nothing at all. So a retrofit shade project starts as a survey rather than an order — window by window, we establish which openings can be reached, which need a fascia instead of a pocket, and which are honestly battery openings. You get that map before anyone quotes fabric, because a quote written without it is a quote that changes.

Can my old Lutron Sivoia QED shades be upgraded instead of replaced?

Usually, and it is worth asking before you accept a replacement quote. Legacy Sivoia QED shades from the 2000s still have a factory upgrade path onto the current Sivoia QS drives — Lutron does not orphan its product lines when a generation turns over. In practice that means the openings, the brackets, the pockets and often the fabric stay where they are and the drive is brought current, instead of re-treating every window in the house. We assess it window by window, because the answer depends on the original hardware and how the pockets were built.

Most projects combine two or three of these. Worth a read.

Count the windows. We will tell you which ones can be wired.

Start with a conversation.

Tell us the room, the home, and what you want it to do. We'll walk the plans with you — no cost, no pitch.

More on the platform: our Lutron Certified Installer credentialing, HomeWorks vs Control4 for lighting, and what we do in Leawood.

Also serving across the metro

We install in every wealthy neighborhood between Loch Lloyd and the Plaza — and every estate from Mission Hills to Lake Quivira. Pick your neighborhood for the locality page.

Written by Daniel Alon, founder of IntegrateIT LLC, with twenty years in IT and AV integration — Control4 Platinum dealer, Crestron Elite Partner, Lutron Certified Installer, CEDIA member. Overland Park, KS.

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